For the "I've never been to..."-series, our authors explore places in Munich that they have never visited before – although they have lived in the city for years or even their whole lives. This time, our Munich author Anja Schauberger discovers the Alpine Museum on the Isar for the first time.
A few years ago, a friend visited me in Munich and one of the first things he did was explore the Alpine Museum. It immediately caught his eye as he was walking through the city centre. I didn't want to admit it at the time, but I had never heard of the Alpine Museum. As a local and a journalist specialising in Munich, I felt embarrassed. I must have cycled past it countless times. How could I have missed the museum all these years?
It’s almost impossible to miss, because the Alpine Museum is one of the most central spots in Munich. Between the Maxmonument and the Maximilianeum, between the Haidhausen district and the old town, between the Isar River and Maximilians Bridge. Right in the middle of the Praterinsel. You pass by it all the time! And the building itself has been around for a long time: Originally opened in 1888 as a café-restaurant, it was converted into a museum in 1911, only to be largely destroyed during the Second World War.
One reason why I had not noticed the Alpine Museum for so long was that it felt private and inaccessible. The entrance used to be at the back of the building and you could only enter through the garden. One of the main goals of the renovation was a new, more visible entrance, as I read on the website. So, I wasn't the only one who had trouble finding the way in.
I must have cycled past it countless times. How could I have missed the museum all these years?
Now, after three years of renovation, the Alpine Museum has reopened—perfect timing for me to finally visit it! And a lot has changed, as you can tell from the outside: The entrance door is now at the front, facing the Isar River. The door frame is crafted of matt brass and as I step in, it feels like entering a modern design hotel.
This first impression continues inside: concrete surfaces, natural stone, local wood – everything is designed simply, clearly and thoughtfully. For example, the café in the entrance, whose open-plan area extends into the garden in summer. Or the library, the largest alpine library in the world, with its clean lines and benches positioned by large windows, offering stunning views of the Isar River. Or the new exhibition space for the permanent exhibition “Darum Berge” (The Reason for Mountains) mirrors a mountain landscape, inviting visitors to wander through winding paths that offer different perspectives.
I climb onto a replica bunk bed, just like the ones in mountain huts, I smell hay, thyme and mountain pine and write down why I myself feel drawn to the mountains.
Here, you can experience the mountain world with all your senses: I climb into a replica bunk bed, just like the ones in mountain huts; I smell hay, thyme and mountain pine and write down why I feel drawn to the mountains. I learn that, in the past, climbers didn’t carry a water bottle on challenging mountain tours, but instead placed a pebble under their tongue. And that, until the 1960s, the dangers of mountaineering were seen as a positive contrast to everyday middle class life. For many mountain enthusiasts, the possibility of dying was a way of living more intensely.
All exhibits relating to the mountains are thoughtfully displayed here: a hand-carved wooden spoon hangs beside a modern functional jacket, an ice axe, climbing boots, an old ski helmet, hut books from various decades, a vintage hiking rucksack, carabiners, maps and clothing from a mountain ascent in the 1930s. You can see forged crampons, espresso makers and drinking bottles, an outdoor cooking pot and various knotting techniques.
Despite the inclusion of modern elements, the house retains its history: On the first floor, I admire the green floral ceiling painting in the ballroom and read that it had been taken down over 50 years ago and was accidentally uncovered during the renovation. The golden vintage chandeliers, the historic arched windows and the refurbished parquet floor fit perfectly. I can well imagine festive occasions being organised here!
One of the highlights that has been brought back to life after the remodelling is Café Isarlust, which was a popular meeting place for the middle class at the end of the 19th century. Writers and women's rights activists also met here for readings, parties and discussions. An exhibition on the first floor tells the rich history of the building and displays old postcards, posters and tickets from the former café-restaurant.
Unfortunately, there are no more wild carnival balls in today's Museum Café, but there is very tasty coffee and cake as well as sandwiches and hot dishes for lunch. The menu also features beer from Giesinger Bräu and various wines. The library next door offers free WLAN access. And in summer, the alpine garden welcomes visitors with deckchairs. I suspect that this combination will not only attract students to work here. I, too, immediately feel like packing up my laptop and working at Isarlust when the weather is nice. Dreaming of the mountains while gazing at the water – what could be better?
Dreaming of the mountains while gazing at the water – what could be better?
After a coffee and a browse in the museum shop, I head home. It’s amazing what new discoveries you can make, even after living in a city for ages. How you can always train your eye, stay curious, and dare to take a different route. In future, I will certainly not cycle past the Alpine Museum without noticing it. And I will recommend it to all my friends who visit me in Munich.
